One of the most surprising and agreeable features of the Alps is the quality and variety of mountain refuges. These are far from being totally rustic and uncomfortable and offer walkers and climbers the opportunity to explore much more widely without having to carry camping equipment or descend to the valley to find overnight food and accommodation.
Most refuges are now fully open until the autumn. They can get busy at peak periods, so it's essential to phone ahead to book your place.
They have showers and toilets, and you can wash and dry clothes. Sometimes sleeping accommodation is in dormitories, although many refuges offer smaller rooms for groups or couples.
Meals are often copious and convivial and usually include regional specialities such as fondue or tartiflette which are hugely welcome after a hard day's hike.
Prices can vary, but dinner bed and breakfast is usually around 35 Euros per person. It is possible just to sleep which will cost about 10 Euros, or you can bivouac nearby in your own tent and enjoy a home-cooked evening meal in the refuge. Make sure you have cash on you though, because many refuges don't take credit cards.
The surprising proximity of wild animals such as marmottes and ibex combined with glorious arrays of mountain flowers and remarkable Alpine sunrises and sunsets make for an unforgettable experience.
Photos : Sébastien Baud